It’s best to “sneak up on the cut” here so that you get the tightest fit. To add the trim, I ripped a couple of pickets down to 1 1/2 inches wide, then measured and mitered the ends at 45 degrees. Then, I simply laid the slats on top of the cleats, spacing them out evenly. I placed the cleats about 12 inches down from the top of the planter. I’m no gardening expert, but I believe a good rule of thumb is to have at least 8 inches of soil for your plants (although don’t quote me on that). You can place the cleats at any height in the planter. Next, we attached the cleats to the inside of the planter box – this will support the bottom slats. Secure at each corner with 1 1/4-inch brad nails and wood glue. Once all four panels are constructed, they should come together like a puzzle. There will also be a 5/8-inch inset on both ends. Lay the legs and rails in position, then attach the planks with 1-inch brad nails and wood glue. Construct the side panels in the same way you did the front and back panels. However, this time, you’ll rip the legs down to 2 7/8 inches. Once again, rip the rails down to 3 1/2 inches. Set that aside and move onto building the side panels.Ĭut the legs, short rails, and planks to length. Repeat and build two of these panels – these will be the front and back panels of the planter. Then I used my brad nailer to attach the planks with 1-inch brad nails and wood glue. I laid the legs and rails down on my workbench, with the smooth side facing down, then positioned the planks on top of them, leaving a 5/8-inch inset on each end. If this is the case, lay the good side down so that the rough side will be on the inside of the planter. Sometimes cedar fence pickets can have a smooth side and a rough side. The planks will remain at the original 5 1/2-inch width. Then I ran the leg and rail parts through the table saw, ripping them down to 3 1/2 inches wide. Using cedar fence pickets helps to keep the costs down – one fence picket is about $3/board and cedar is a good choice for exterior applications because it’s naturally resistant to rot and pests.įirst, I cut the legs, long rails, and planks down to length on the miter saw. It made building these raised planters fast and easy. I was excited to give my new pneumatic brad nailer a try – I’m happy to report it’s lightweight and easy to operate. Arrow Fastener T50ACD Compact Electric Staple Gun + staples.How To Make A DIY Raised Planter with Trellis TOOLS: This is a great weekend project that will cost around $50-$75 in materials (for one planter). As always, I’ve got the PDF plans available for you to download below. The Arrow Pneumatic Brad Nailer and Compact Electric Stapler made this build fast and easy. I’m thrilled to be partnering with Arrow Fastener on this DIY raised planter with trellis project. It’s my happiest place! This planter was so easy and affordable to make, I made two of them! Read on if you want to make your own. Don’t they look great against the Woodhouse Workshop? It’s the cutest little workshop that ever was and the planters add so much charm and functionality. It’s Fall planting season, friends! We are so excited to get some fall veggies planted in our brand new DIY raised planters with trellis. Carefully brace the posts against the ground once you've assured they are in the proper position.An easy, step-by-step tutorial on how to make a DIY Raised Planter with Trellis for about $50! Includes a tools and supply list with photos and downloadable PDF plans! You may want to clamp the lattice panel in place once more to ensure the spacing is correct. Reposition the posts in the foundation holes, then realign them so they are plumb and set at the proper distance. When you cut the posts, the downhill post will be longer, but this will ensure that the lattice panel is level when installed. Adjust the line level so the bubble shows level, then mark the downhill post at this point. With the lattice panel temporarily clamped in place, make the cutting line on the uphill post, then extend a line level across to the downhlll post. This means that there will be a gap on the downhill side between the bottom of the lattice and the ground.Ī good way to mark the posts is with a line level. If your lattice screen is installed on sloped ground, be aware that the posts will need to be cut at different heights so that the screen remains level. The Spruce Home Improvement Review Board.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |